TL;DR: Choosing the right motorcycle helmet comes down to three main factors: safety certification, proper fit, and helmet style/type. Always pick a helmet that is DOT-approved (look for the DOT sticker on the back, meaning it meets U.S. safety standards). Measure your head and try helmets on to ensure a snug, comfortable fit – the helmet should feel tight but not painful, with no pressure points, and it shouldn’t move around when you shake your head.
Opt for a helmet style that offers maximum coverage (a full-face helmet gives the most protection, covering your face and chin). Any certified helmet can save your life, reducing the risk of head injury by about 69% and the risk of death by 42%. For more guidance or an insurance quote for your bike, call Insure On The Spot at 773-202-5060.
Why Does Helmet Safety Certification Matter?
In the U.S., make sure any helmet you buy has a DOT certification label. This label means the helmet meets the Department of Transportation’s Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 218, the minimum safety standard required for road use. A DOT-certified helmet has undergone tests for impact absorption, strap strength, and field of vision. In fact, all adult helmets sold for street riding in the U.S. must be DOT compliant.
You might also encounter other safety ratings: Snell and ECE. The Snell Memorial Foundation is an independent testing organization with a stricter, voluntary standard often used in high-performance or racing helmets. Snell-tested helmets go through more rigorous impact tests than DOT’s minimum requirements. ECE (currently ECE 22.06 in Europe) is the European safety standard. ECE and DOT standards are similar in intent (each government sets its own tests), but ECE is required in Europe while DOT is required in the U.S. For the average rider in the U.S., a DOT-certified helmet is the legal must-have, and a Snell certification can be a “nice-to-have” extra assurance of quality.
How Do I Find the Right Helmet Size and Fit?
A helmet that’s too loose or too tight can be both uncomfortable and unsafe. Here’s how to choose the correct size and ensure a good fit:
Measure Your Head
Use a soft tape measure (or string you can later measure with a ruler) to find the circumference of your head. Wrap it around your head just above your eyebrows and ears, across the largest part of the back of your head. This measurement (in inches or cm) gives you a starting point for helmet size (e.g., Small, Medium, Large, etc., based on each manufacturer’s size chart).
Try It On
Once you have a helmet in the right size range, put it on properly. The helmet should sit level on your head, with the front edge about an inch above your eyebrows. It will likely feel snug – that’s good. Fasten the chin strap securely (it should only allow a finger or two between your chin and the strap). Check for pressure points: the helmet’s interior foam should press evenly around your head. You want firm contact on your cheeks and brow, but no specific point should hurt or pinch. A correctly sized helmet will feel tight but evenly snug – it shouldn’t be so tight that it gives you a headache or leaves red marks on your forehead after you take it off. Conversely, it shouldn’t be so loose that it wobbles or can be pulled up and off too easily. If you shake your head side-to-side or up and down, the helmet should not slide around; your cheeks should move with the helmet’s interior pads.
Check Vision and Comfort
Make sure you have a good field of view when the helmet is on; you should be able to see left and right adequately (full-face helmets will naturally have a smaller eye port than open-face, but any road-legal helmet has to allow a certain range of vision). If you wear eyeglasses or sunglasses when you ride, bring them when fitting helmets. Many helmets have grooves or removable pads to accommodate glasses. The helmet should still feel comfy with your glasses on (or consider a modular helmet that lets you put your glasses on easily, more on helmet types below).
Walk Around With It
Wear the helmet for a few minutes in the store. Most helmets’ inner liners compress slightly with use, so a brand-new helmet should be a touch tighter than a broken-in one. It’s okay if it’s “pretty snug” as long as it’s not painful. After 5-10 minutes, remove the helmet and check for any sore spots or red lines on your skin – those are signs of a poor fit (too tight in those areas). Try the next size up or a different helmet model if that happens. Different brands have different interior shapes (some are oval, some round); if one brand doesn’t fit your head shape well (e.g., pressure on forehead but loose on sides), another brand might.
What Types of Motorcycle Helmets Can I Choose From?
Motorcycle helmets come in several styles, and it’s important to choose one that suits your riding needs while offering good protection. Here are the main types of helmets and their characteristics:
Full-Face Helmet
This is the safest type for most riders because it covers the entire head and includes a chin bar to protect your jaw. In a full-face helmet, your whole face is enclosed (you look through a visor). This gives maximum coverage – in fact, studies show that about 35% of motorcycle crash impacts hit the chin area, which only a full-face or modular helmet (when closed) will protect. Full-face helmets are recommended for sport riding, highway riding, and really any time you want the highest level of protection. Modern full-face helmets also have features like ventilation ports to keep you cool and visors with anti-fog coatings. They can be stylish too – coming in all sorts of graphics – but the key is they offer all-around head and face protection.
Modular Helmet (Flip-Up)
A modular helmet looks a lot like a full-face, but the chin bar can flip up on a hinge, effectively converting the helmet into an open-face when raised. Riders who like modulars value their convenience – for example, if you want to talk to someone, take a drink, or put on glasses, you can flip the front up without removing the helmet. Important: Modular helmets are designed to be worn in the closed position while riding for full protection; the hinge mechanism means they might not be quite as structurally robust as a one-piece full-face in a severe crash, but reputable modulars are still safe when locked down. They are popular with touring and adventure riders. If you choose a modular, ensure it’s securely latched while riding so you have chin protection. Many modular helmets carry DOT certification; some are also Snell or ECE certified (Snell only recently began certifying modulars). So if you need versatility, a modular can be a great choice – just treat it like a full-face when it comes to when it’s flipped down.
Open-Face Helmet (Three-quarter)
This type covers your head but leaves your face exposed. It usually goes around the back of your head and down over your ears, but has no chin bar. Open-face helmets give you a bit more wind in your face and a wider sense of vision and hearing, which some cruiser or scooter riders enjoy. However, remember that with an open-face, your face (chin, jaw, nose, eyes) has no impact protection. If you crash and land face-first, an open-face helmet won’t help your chin or face. The trade-off for that breezy, open feeling is a significant drop in protection. According to safety experts, not having a chin guard increases your safety risk in a crash. That said, an open-face is certainly better than no helmet at all and can be an acceptable choice for low-speed riding or in jurisdictions that require at least a minimal helmet. Many open-face helmets come with snap-on shields or you can wear goggles/face shield for eye protection. If you choose an open-face, ride with the understanding that you’re taking a bit more risk, and consider wearing other face protection (like a bandana or visor) for debris and bugs.
Half Helmet
Half helmets (sometimes called “brain buckets”) cover even less – basically just the top of your head to about your ears. They often look like a minimalist shell with straps. These are the least protective helmets that are still considered helmets. They do not cover your face or much of the sides/back of your head. Some half helmets aren’t much more than a thick padded cap. While a DOT-certified half helmet will protect your skull in some impacts, it leaves your entire face and much of the head vulnerable. We generally do not recommend half helmets if you can help it, because they sacrifice a lot of protection for style. In fact, some half helmets sold are novelty helmets (not DOT certified) – avoid those at all costs. If you really want the wind-in-your-hair feeling, an open-face (three-quarter) helmet is a safer bet than a half helmet. Use a half helmet only if it’s the only head protection you’ll wear – it’s better than nothing but offers far from comprehensive coverage.
Off-Road/Motocross Helmet
Off-road helmets are designed for dirt riding and motocross. They typically have a pronounced sun visor/peak on top and an extended chin bar, but usually no built-in face shield – riders wear separate goggles for eye protection. The elongated chin bar helps with ventilation and breathing hard when doing off-road exertion, and the visor blocks some roost (dirt and rocks kicked up) and sun. These helmets prioritize ventilation and light weight, since off-road riding is strenuous. They are DOT/ECE certified for impact, but note that off-road helmets are not ideal for high-speed highway use unless you add goggles and maybe remove the peak (the visor can catch wind at high speed). If you do both street and trail riding, you might consider a dual-sport helmet.
Dual-Sport/Adventure Helmet
This is a hybrid between a dirt helmet and a street helmet. Dual-sport helmets usually have a peak visor and an off-road look, but also come with a flip-down face shield like a street helmet. They are designed to be versatile – you can ride on the street with the face shield down, or off-road with the shield up and goggles on. They offer full coverage (including chin protection) similar to full-face helmets. For adventure riders who tackle both highway and trails, a dual-sport helmet is a convenient option. Just make sure any helmet in this category fits well with your needs – e.g., some have removable peaks for better aerodynamics on the highway.
To visualize the differences, here’s a quick comparison of helmet types vs. coverage:
| Helmet Type | Coverage & Protection | Usage |
| Full-Face | Covers entire head including chin and face. Maximum protection for head, face, and jaw. Best at protecting you from impact, debris, weather, etc. | All-around use (street/highway, sport riding). Ideal for maximum safety. |
| Modular (Flip-Up) | Full coverage when closed (chin bar provides protection when locked). Slightly heavier than full-face due to hinge; not meant to be worn open while riding at speed. | Touring, commuting, riders with glasses or who want flexibility (can flip up at stops). Safety comparable to full-face when closed. |
| Open-Face (3/4) | Covers head but no chin/jaw protection. Leaves face exposed to impact, wind, bugs. | Low-speed cruising, vintage riders. Note: No chin bar means significantly less protection for face. |
| Half Helmet | Covers top of head to about ears. No coverage for face or much of the sides/back of head. | Not recommended for most riders due to minimal protection. Used by some cruiser riders for style or where law allows. Better than nothing, but far inferior to other types. |
| Off-Road | Full head coverage with chin bar and visor, but meant for off-road impact types. Usually worn with goggles (no face shield). | Dirt biking, motocross. Designed for ventilation and roost protection. Can be used on road but with drawbacks (wind noise, drag). |
| Dual-Sport | Similar to off-road helmet with added face shield and more padding. Chin bar and visor included. | Adventure riding (on/off road). Versatile: good protection and features for both highway and trail, but check comfort at high speeds (visor drag). |
How Much Should I Spend on a Motorcycle Helmet?
Motorcycle helmets come in a wide range of prices, from budget-friendly to premium. The good news is that you don’t have to spend a fortune to get a safe helmet. Even the most affordable new helmets on the market (around $50-$100) still have to meet DOT safety standards, so they will protect your head in a basic crash just as required by law. In other words, a $100 DOT-approved helmet and a $600 DOT-approved helmet both have passed the same minimum impact tests. Price isn’t an absolute predictor of safety beyond those standards – a certified helmet is a certified helmet. In fact, some less expensive helmets even carry additional certifications like ECE, and a few have good safety ratings in independent tests. So why the big price differences?
Here are some factors that typically come with higher-priced helmets, which may or may not be important to you:
Materials and Weight
Expensive helmets often use advanced materials like fiberglass composite, Kevlar, or carbon fiber in the shell, which can make the helmet lighter and sometimes better at distributing impact. A lighter helmet can reduce fatigue on your neck during long rides. Cheaper helmets often use polycarbonate (plastic) shells, which are perfectly safe but usually heavier and a bit bulkier to meet the same standards. If you ride long distances or at high speeds, a lighter helmet can be worth the cost for comfort.
Comfort and Fit Features
Premium helmets usually have more comfortable interior padding, high-quality moisture-wicking liners, and better ergonomics. They may offer multiple shell sizes across the range (so that an XL isn’t just a padded-out small shell, but a larger shell for better proportional fit). You might find replaceable cheek pads of different thicknesses to custom-fit your face, which is less common in budget lids. The difference can be noticeable if you wear your helmet for hours at a time.
Noise and Aerodynamics
More expensive helmets tend to be more aerodynamic and better sealed, which means less wind noise at speed. Quiet helmets can really reduce fatigue on long highway rides. Design features like chin curtains, neck rolls, and wind-tunnel-tested shapes make a difference here. Budget helmets might be noisier or catch more air (which can tug on your head at high speed).
Ventilation and Features
High-end helmets often have more effective ventilation systems – multiple vents you can open/close to channel airflow over your head. They may also include features like an internal sun visor (flip-down sunglasses inside the helmet), Pinlock anti-fog inserts for the face shield, quick-release mechanisms for shields, and better hardware (metal latches on modular chin bars vs. plastic, for example). Some even have fancy features like emergency cheek pad releases for EMTs, or integrated Bluetooth communication system compatibility. Lower-priced helmets might have fewer vents, basic visors that can fog up, and simpler components.
Finish and Style
Premium helmets from big brands often have premium paint finishes, clear-coat graphics, race-replica designs, etc. You might be paying a bit for the name or the artwork. That $800 helmet with a famous racer’s graphics is going to cost more than a solid-color no-name helmet, but both could be DOT certified. If you’re on a tight budget, skip the fancy graphics – you can get a safe helmet at lower cost by choosing plain colors or last-year’s models on closeout.
Certification Beyond DOT
Some pricier helmets also carry Snell certification, which can add cost because the manufacturer has put the helmet through extra testing and possibly beefed up certain aspects to meet Snell’s tougher criteria. If you plan to do track days or racing, a Snell-rated helmet might be required. For everyday street riding, DOT (and/or ECE) is usually sufficient, but some riders like knowing their helmet met Snell standards too.
So how much should you spend? That depends on your budget and how much you value the extra features. A good rule of thumb is to buy the best helmet you can afford that fits you well. If that’s a $100 helmet, that’s fine – it will still protect your brain in a crash if it’s DOT-approved. Just make sure it’s from a reputable manufacturer (there are many good affordable helmet brands nowadays) and that it fits properly. On the other hand, if you can spend more, somewhere in the $200-$400 range opens up a lot of options that balance comfort, low weight, and features with great safety. Above $500, you’re often paying for top-notch comfort, very low weight (carbon fiber shells), prestige branding, and small increments of improvement.
Importantly, do not equate price with safety beyond a point – a cheap helmet worn correctly is far better than a $1000 helmet sitting at home or worn incorrectly. Also, avoid used helmets (more on that in the FAQ) just to save money. Helmets are one item where you want new – you don’t know the history of a used one, and degradation or past impacts aren’t visible. There are plenty of sales and closeouts on last year’s colors that can get you a high-quality helmet at a discount. For example, you might find a $300 helmet on sale for $150 in a color that’s being phased out.
What Other Features Should I Consider?
Beyond certification, fit, type, and price, there are a few more things to think about when picking your ideal helmet:
Helmet Weight
As mentioned, weight can affect comfort. Most full-face helmets weigh somewhere around 3 to 4 pounds (1.4 to 1.8 kg). A difference of a few hundred grams might not sound like much, but it can be noticeable on a long ride or if you have neck issues. Lighter usually means more expensive materials (fiberglass, composite, carbon fiber). Try holding the helmet or wearing it for a bit to judge if the weight feels OK for you. A well-balanced helmet (weight distributed evenly) can also “feel” lighter than its actual weight.
Shell Shape and Sizing
If you’re in between sizes, check if the helmet has interchangeable interior pads. Some brands allow you to buy thinner or thicker cheek pads or liners to fine-tune fit. Also, consider the shape of the helmet interior – riders with very round heads vs. very oval heads will find different brands fit better. There’s no substitute for trying them on. If you have a particularly large or small head, look for brands that cater to that (some have XXL or even 3XL sizes, others top out at XL – make sure the model comes in your size).
Ventilation
If you ride in a hot climate or do vigorous rides, ventilation is key. Full-face and modular helmets will have vent ports (usually chin, forehead, and exhaust vents at rear). Higher-end models often have more vents you can open/close to adjust airflow. If you tend to ride in cold or rain, you might prefer fewer vents (to stay warm and dry). Try operating the vent sliders with gloves on if you can – they should be easy to find and use.
Visor/Face Shield
Check the visor mechanism. Does it have an anti-fog coating or come with a Pinlock insert (a removable inner lens that greatly reduces fogging)? Does the visor seal well against rain? Can you crack it open just a tiny bit for defogging or extra air? Also, consider if the helmet has a built-in sun visor (a secondary tinted visor that drops down from inside). Those can be super handy for sunny conditions so you don’t have to swap to a tinted outer visor or wear sunglasses. Make sure the visor gives you a clear, undistorted view and that replacements or different tints are available. Some helmets have quick-release visors so you can swap a shield in seconds without tools – a nice feature if you switch between clear and tinted often.
Interior and Liners
Most helmets today have removable, washable liners – a great feature so you can keep your helmet fresh (sweat and hair oils build up over time). Check that the liner is removable and what the care instructions are. Also, some helmets have more plush padding than others – feel the material against your skin. If you’re bald or have certain hairstyles, some fabrics might be more comfortable. Also, if you plan to use a Bluetooth communication system (for music, GPS, intercom), see if the helmet has speaker cutouts in the ear area – many modern helmets do, which makes installing comms easier and more comfortable.
Retention System
Almost all helmets use the standard double D-ring chin strap which is very secure. A few use quick-release buckles (common in some European helmets). D-rings are a little slower to fasten/unfasten, but very reliable and adjustable. This isn’t usually a make-or-break feature, but something to be aware of. Always fasten the chin strap snugly when riding – a helmet can fly off in a crash if the strap is loose or unbuckled. Also, make sure the strap is comfortable under your chin and the padding is sufficient.
Noise
If possible, read reviews or ask others about how quiet a particular helmet is at speed. This is hard to test in a store, of course. If you do a lot of freeway miles, a quieter helmet can reduce fatigue. Wind noise can also be mitigated by wearing earplugs (highly recommended on any long ride), but helmet design plays a role. Features like a chin curtain (reduces wind coming in under the chin) can help.
Color and Visibility
This might sound like just a style choice, but color can also be a safety feature. A bright-colored helmet (think white, hi-viz yellow/green, orange, or with reflective elements) can make you more noticeable in traffic. In daylight, white or brightly colored helmets are more visible to other drivers, and at night, reflective stickers or a helmet that’s brightly colored can stand out in headlights. While it’s perfectly fine to choose a color/design you love (you’re more likely to wear a helmet that you think looks good), it’s worth considering visibility. If you like dark or matte black helmets for style, you might add some reflective tape that’s black in daytime but reflective at night, or ensure your jacket has reflective bits. Some helmets come in high-visibility versions or with built-in reflectors. Statistics indicate that riders who wear brighter gear and helmets are less likely to be overlooked by drivers – anything that helps you get seen can prevent a crash in the first place. So, style can meet safety: you can express your personality, but also think about choosing a design that is noticeable on the road.
New Safety Tech
In recent years, some motorcycle helmets have adopted technologies like MIPS (Multi-directional Impact Protection System), which is a slip-plane liner designed to reduce rotational forces on the brain (it has been used in bicycle helmets and is now appearing in some motorcycle helmets). Other innovations include helmets with inflatable cheek pads (for emergency removal), smart helmets with heads-up displays, or integrated brake lights. These are niche and usually pricey, but if you’re a tech enthusiast, you might explore what’s out there. Just ensure that any whiz-bang tech doesn’t compromise the core safety of the helmet.
FAQs
Q: When should I replace my motorcycle helmet?
A: You should replace your helmet after any significant crash or impact, immediately. Helmets are designed to absorb impact energy once – the foam inside crushes to protect you, and it doesn’t spring back. Even if the helmet looks OK on the outside after a crash, the internal structure may be compromised. For this reason, the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) and other safety experts strongly advise replacing a helmet after any accident where your head hit, or even if you dropped the helmet from a good height (e.g. off your bike at speed or from a shelf). The same goes if you notice cracks in the shell or damage to the foam. Additionally, helmets don’t last forever. The materials degrade over time from UV exposure, sweat, and general wear-and-tear. A common rule is to replace your helmet every 5 years or so, even if you haven’t crashed in it. Many manufacturers and Snell recommend a 5-year replacement cycle under normal use. If you use your helmet daily or it’s showing signs of wear (loose padding, fraying straps, etc.), you might do it closer to every 3-5 years. The MSF also notes that helmet technology and standards improve over time, so a new helmet every few years keeps you up-to-date with the latest safety advances.
Q: What’s the difference between DOT, Snell, and ECE helmet certifications?
A: These are three common helmet safety standards. DOT is the U.S. government standard (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 218) that all street-legal motorcycle helmets must meet in the United States. DOT is a self-certifying standard – manufacturers test their helmets to ensure they meet DOT, and they certify them. The government (via NHTSA) will occasionally spot-check and pull helmets for testing to enforce compliance. The DOT tests include impact attenuation, penetration resistance, strap strength, etc., and are meant to mimic typical crash energies. Snell is a private, non-profit organization that has its own standard (often considered more rigorous than DOT). Snell testing is voluntary – a manufacturer chooses to submit helmets to Snell for certification. Snell tests often involve higher impact velocities and additional criteria; for example, Snell will test the chin bar of full-face helmets (DOT currently does not have a chin bar impact test). Snell also does random sample testing by buying helmets off the shelf to ensure continued compliance. In essence, Snell standards demand a bit more protective margin – they’re designed for riders who want the “best possible” protection, and Snell is often required in competitive motorsports. ECE stands for Economic Commission for Europe, and ECE 22.05 (recently updated to 22.06) is the helmet standard used in Europe and many other countries. ECE is a government standard like DOT, but it involves third-party testing (the helmets are tested in certified labs before they can be sold as ECE-approved). ECE and DOT have slightly different test methodologies (ECE tests the helmet at more points and includes a rigidity test; DOT has a harder impact requirement in some cases, etc.). A key point: ECE is the required standard in European countries; DOT is required for helmets sold in the US. Many helmets sold internationally are dual-certified to both DOT and ECE (and some to Snell as well).
(Note: SHARP is a UK government program that rates helmets on a 5-star scale based on more intensive testing (beyond ECE). You might see SHARP mentioned in helmet reviews – it’s not a certification for legal use, but a useful information source on how helmets perform in rigorous impact tests. It can be a way to compare the real-world protection of ECE/DOT helmet. Unfortunately SHARP mostly tests helmets sold in Europe, but many are worldwide models).
Q: Is it okay to buy or use a used helmet to save money?
A: Buying a used motorcycle helmet is not recommended. The reason is you just can’t be sure of its history or condition. A helmet’s protective ability can be invisibly compromised: if it’s been dropped or in a crash, the outer shell might not show damage, but the inner foam could be crushed or weakened. Once that foam is compressed, it won’t protect you properly in another impact. With a used helmet, you don’t know if it’s ever been in a crash or abused (people sometimes accidentally drop helmets off their bike, etc., and won’t always disclose that). Also, older helmets might have degradation – the glues and materials can break down, especially if it’s been stored improperly (excess heat, UV exposure). Hygiene and fit are concerns too – a used helmet will be molded to the previous owner’s head shape to some degree, and the lining will have their sweat, hair oils, etc. (not very pleasant or sanitary). Due to all these reasons, safety organizations and manufacturers unanimously say don’t buy a used helmet and don’t sell yours used either. Even if the outside looks fine, it might have “used up” its one life already. The one possible exception might be if you’re getting a barely used helmet from a close trusted friend or family member who you absolutely know has never dropped it or crashed in it – and it’s only a couple years old. But even then, proceed with caution. It’s usually better to buy a lower-cost new helmet than a higher-end used helmet. New, affordable helmets today still meet the required standards and you’ll have full confidence in its integrity. And as mentioned, many retailers put last year’s helmet models on sale, so you can get a good new helmet at a discount rather than gambling on a used one.
Q: Do I really need to wear a helmet if my state doesn’t require it?
A: Yes, absolutely. You should wear a helmet every time you ride, even if the law doesn’t mandate it for you. While laws vary (as of now, about 18–19 states in the U.S. have universal helmet laws for all riders, others have partial laws or none), the statistics and common sense strongly favor wearing a helmet. Riding without a helmet greatly increases the risk of fatal injury. For instance, in U.S. states without universal helmet laws, 54% of motorcyclists killed in 2022 were not wearing helmets, versus only 11% in states with universal helmet laws. That means a rider is much more likely to die in a crash if not wearing a helmet. Helmets reduce the risk of head injury by a huge margin (we noted ~69% reduction in head injury risk earlier) – and head injuries are often life-threatening or life-changing. Even in a minor spill, a helmet can be the difference between a couple of scrapes and a concussion or worse. It’s also worth considering that if you’re riding without a helmet, things like wind, rain, or insects can impair your vision or concentration. A helmet (with a face shield, ideally) keeps the wind out of your eyes and the bugs out of your teeth, which makes for a safer, more comfortable ride. Some riders complain that helmets are uncomfortable or restrict freedom – but a good-fitting helmet actually feels natural after a while, and the freedom you’re preserving is the freedom to keep living and riding. From an insurance perspective, some insurers might have clauses or consider it negligence if you don’t wear a helmet and get injured, potentially affecting claims (especially in states with helmet laws). But legal and financial reasons aside, think of your loved ones and your own well-being. Riding is fun, but it comes with risks – mitigate one of the biggest risks by wearing that helmet. Every experienced rider has stories of how their helmet saved them from serious harm. So even if your state says you legally can ride without one, the wise choice – the rider who lives to ride another day choice – is to wear a quality helmet every single time. Your brain and your family will thank you.
Need more help or have questions? Choosing the right helmet is a crucial part of riding safely. If you’d like personalized advice, or if you want to make sure you have the proper insurance coverage while you’re out riding, feel free to reach out to Insure On The Spot at 773-202-5060. We’re happy to help fellow riders stay safe and protected on the road. Ride safe!